As many of you know Chewonki partnered with Cruise North Expeditions and this month 29 adventurous folks joined us as we traveled from Resolute on Cornwallis Island in Nunavut, 750 miles north of the Arctic Circle, over 2000 miles south to Kuujjuaq in Northern Quebec.

Chewonki High Arctic Crew with Akpatok Island in the background
Cruise North is an Inuit owned company that has been offering educational cruises in the Arctic for 6 years.
I think that it is fair to say that without fail each of our participants has been truly overwhelmed, in the best definition of the word, with the Arctic and Cruise North. The Expedition Staff, hotel staff, chef, dining room staff, housekeeping staff and food was inspiring as was the landscape and our wildlife encounters.
Particularly impressive was Expedition Leader, Jason Annahatak, I’m not sure you could find a better ambassador for Cruise North and the native people of Nunavik and Nunavut. His calm and unflappable demeanor is perfectly suited to the role of Expedition Leader as was Assistant Expedition Leader Michael.
The Zodiac drivers and on board Naturalists, Liz, Aaron, George, Josee, Dave, Rita, Jaiku and Dion performed as a well-oiled team and their respect for one another and the passion for what they do is evident.
Keep an eye out for an announcement about next years trip with Cruise North to the High Arctic.

High Arctic Cruise Route
September 6, 2010
74 degrees 41’N 094 degrees52”W
If not for the icebergs and bits of pack ice floating just off shore the landscape of Cornwallis Island in Canada’s far North could be mistaken for the Utah desert. It is the first week of September and our day started well before sunrise in Montreal where we boarded an Air Inuit Charter plane. The first leg of our 7-hour flight took us to Iqaluit on Baffin Island for a refueling stop.
Iqaluit is the capital of Nunavut, the Inuit controlled portion of the region formerly part of the eastern Northwest Territories. After a quick stop we load back onto the plane and take off for Resolute Bay on Cornwallis

Air Inuit Jet in Resolute
Island. Resolute is located 750 miles north of the Arctic Circle and has an interesting and at times depressing past. In the early 1950’s the Canadian Government relocated several Inuit families from Northern Quebec to Resolute enticing them with tales of plentiful wildlife and with the guarantee that if they weren’t happy they could return south the next year. It took until this year for a formal apology to the Inuit from the Canadian Government. The entire story was documented in, The Long Exile; A Tale of Inuit Betrayal and Survival in the High Arctic by Melanie McGrath. Today Resolute has a population of 250 and is the jumping off point for researchers and North Pole Explorers.

Josee and Jason welcome our group to Resolute Bay
We touch down on the gravel runway in a cloud of dust. As soon as the plane door opens a stiff icy wind blows off Resolute Bay. We make our way quickly to the terminal and dig into our day packs for another warm layer and to pull on our knee high waterproof boots that will be needed for our (wet landing) and shuttle by Zodiac to our home the for the next two weeks the Lyubov Orlova. The Orlova is 328 feet long and built for ice travel. A solid ship she spends the winter cruising the waters of the Antarctic and is under contract with Cruise North Expeditions for the Arctic summer. We participate in a quick on shore security check before Zodiacs carry 10-12 of us at a time to the ship. The rolling seas make for an interesting transfer from zodiac to ship. During the afternoon we move into our cabins, explore

Exploring Resolute Bay
the ship and get our first of what will be regular briefings about our route. It is clear from the start that the ability to be flexible is a skill that needs to be embraced by all passengers as our itinerary changes daily given the weather and sea conditions. Soon we are underway-cruising east toward Lancaster Sound and our first destination, Beechey Island. We pass through small patches of pack ice as the early evening light illuminates the Cornwallis Island coast in a golden glow.
September 7, 2010
74 degrees 37′N 091 degrees 10′W

Beechey Island Graves
The ship is anchored just off Beechey when I wake around 4:30AM. I really didn’t sleep too well because I was filled with the anticipation of visiting Beechey. One of the Arctic’s most famous historical sites, Beechey is well known as the place that the Franklin Expedition spent the winter of 1845/46. Beechey is a hauntingly stark landscape that upon landing is accentuated by the low angle of the early morning sun. Our first stop is at the graves of three of Franklins Crew who died during the first winter, another grave marks the spot of another early explorer who died during a latter rescue mission for Franklin. The wooden grave markers cast long shadows at this time of the morning adding to the mystery of the place. It was after exhumation of two graves in the late 1980’s that researchers discovered unusually high lead levels in the bodies. Franklin’s ships and

Lyubov Orlova
food supplies where at the time considered state of the art. Unfortunately the solder that was used to seal the cans was made of lead, which leaked into the food contributing to high concentrations in the crew. Many think this explains the seemingly irrational decisions that where made during the following months by Franklin and his sailors. Over the next several years all of Franklin’s crew vanished. In the coming years rescue crews would find a trail of materials and human remains scattered across the Arctic.

Cape Liddon, Devon Island
After our exploration of Beechey we return to the ship for a late breakfast and then head to our next stop, the steep cliffs of Cape Liddon on Devon Island. We again board Zodiacs for an up-close look at the bird-nesting colony of Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Black Guillemots, Glaucous Gulls and a few ravens. Below the nests we watch as a polar bear feasts on a narwhal carcass.
September 8, 2010
73 degrees 04’N 084 degrees 33”W
We have travelled many miles during the night and at dawn we cruise into the harbor at Nanisivik, Canada’s only deepwater Arctic port, for refueling. While the ship is refueled we hike and the keen botanists in the group spot Mountain Avens, Arctic Fireweed and interesting soil patterns caused by the permafrost. After breakfast we head out on Strathcoma Sound to explore by Zodiac. Our trip is rewarded with the site of a flock of snow geese flying in V formation over a massive iceberg grounded out near shore. We return to the ship to find that refueling has taken longer than expected and just before sunset we leave the dock and continue our journey as the low evening sun colors the hills of the Sound.
September 9, 2010
74 degrees 42′N 78 degrees 00′W

Pond Inlet Elders
We cruise through the Arctic twilight and in the morning many passengers comment on the pitching side to side experienced during the night. We soon turn south from Lancaster Sound and enter the calm waters of Navy Board Inlet an incredibly beautiful stretch of water between Baffin Island and Bylot Island. Here we circumnavigate an enormous iceberg. We continue on to our afternoon visit at the community of Pond Inlet. We spend a wonderful afternoon in Pond Inlet or Mittimatalik, as it is known in Inuktitut. Our visit includes a cultural demonstration at the visitor center and a walking tour of the town with a stop at the Coop Store.

Navy Board Inlet Iceberg
Just before dusk we raise anchor and continue east to Baffin Bay passing by the jagged mountains of Bylot Island.
September 10, 2010
72 degrees 07’N 75 degrees 41’W
At dawn we enter the stunning North Arm Fjord. During the night new fallen snow has covered the peaks down to the tide line. We anchor off an elliptical sand beach and go ashore to explore a Thule site followed by a hike through the tundra to a waterfall. During the walk we see two Peregrine Falcons and a gyrfalcon. We

Gryfalcon
return to the ship for a barbecue on the back deck amid the hanging glaciers and calm waters of North Arm.

North Arm, Baffin Island
September 11, 2010
69 degrees 39’W 067 degrees 23’W
The morning begins with a moment of silence to remember the day 9 years ago when the Twin Towers fell. Fairly rough waters in Baffin Bay gave us all plenty of practice gaining our sea legs as we steam toward Isabella Bay. Shortly after a morning talk on marine mammals we see our first blow. Isabella Bay is filled with Bowhead Whales and estimates put the number we see at about 50.

Bowhead Whale in Isabella Bay
September 12, 2010
66 degrees 32’N 061 degrees 40’W
Clear blue skies greet the regular group of early morning birders on the top deck as we head toward Sunneshine Fjord. We pass Cape Dyer the site of a DEW Line Station (Distant Early Warning Line). We cross south over the Arctic Circle, which we toast later in the morning with Champagne on the stern deck. We take a wonderful hike on the ridges that tower over the Fjord with the long walkers rewarded by a sighting of small flock of beautiful Rock Ptarmigan.
September 13, 2010
62 degrees 33’N 064 degrees 38’W

Walrus at Robinson Inlet
Today’s destination is Monument Island named in honor of Franklin and the core of an ancient volcano. We plan to offload the Zodiacs for a closer inspection of the island however the weather Gods have other ideas for us as the wind gusts to 38 knots. Plan B, we head to Robinson Inlet and how fortunate we are as we see a herd of 30 walrus and in another nearby cove marvel as the rocky shoreline is alive with 10 polar bears. Had the weather not turned us back from Monument Island we would have missed this incredible wildlife spectacle.

Polar Bear at Robinson Inlet
September 14, 2010
60 degrees 34’ N 067 degrees 58’W
We enter the waters of Ungava Bay and are welcomed by a pod of Atlantic White Sided Dolphins who are further north than the range maps indicate. At Akpatok Island we are welcomed by several polar bears and the largest Thick-Billed Murre colony in the world. Although many of the Murres have already flown south it is still an impressive site. We move down the west shore of the island under unbelievably calm and warm conditions. More polar bears are sighted and two Minke Whales surface nearby. During the afternoon we stop for a spectacular hike before continuing our journey South. For the third night in a row we all gather on the top deck to marvel at the aurora borealis overhead. Several days ago the northern lights where to our south and now they are directly overhead as we are currently near the 60 parallel. Northern lights tend to be most visible between 60 and 72 degrees latitude.

Akpatok Island hike
September 15
Ungava Bay is dead calm when we awake. We anchor near the mouth of the Koksoak River and wait for high tide so the ship can travel up river to a deep hole where we will spend the night just t north of Kuujjuaq. During the morning we launch zodiacs and explore the waterfowl rich shallow bays of the Northern Quebec coastline.
At 1:00pm we head up river on the high tide. A Minke whale marks our entrance to the river. The first trees to be seen in two weeks are visible several miles up river. The landscape is colorful with bright reds and yellows, as autumn has clearly arrived. We are all surprised that a few days ago we were bundled against the snow and today is a balmy 60 degrees. We are treated with the sighting of 10 musk ox on the western shore. The prehistoric looking animals are well suited to withstand the winter winds that will soon blow down from the north

Musk Ox on the Koksoak River
across the Ungava Bay lowlands. I no sooner remark that a wolf would be “icing on the cake” for our adventure when someone spies one on a rocky outcrop along the eastern shore. A quick look in our direction and the wolf drops out of sight. We get a quick glimpse as it trots back into the spruce and tamarack woodlands. We drop anchor and have one more chance to go to shore. The blueberries, cranberries and crowberries leaves are in full fall color. Here we add a few more species to our bird list including a gray jay.
September 16.

Entering the Koksoak River
We shuttle to shore early the next morning and meet a school bus for the ride into Kuujjuaq. We travel about 10 KM, the longest road in town, from the boat landing to the Airport. We have travelled many miles from the High Arctic to the Sub Arctic and we fly south full to the brim with memories and stories to share with those back home.
Greg Shute Wilderness Programs Director